Standard features in a typical Toquenatch Creek Wooden Kayak

Standard features in a typical Toquenatch Creek Wooden Kayak:

Tough Two Part Automotive Clear Coat:

Instead of using multiple layers of varnish, which tend to fade and only provide limited protection against the UV light (which harms epoxy), I finish the kayaks with two coats of Sikkens Auto Clear. It provides the ultimate in UV and salt resistance, and will last for 10 years in the sun. (It is used on your car, to prevent colors from fading, and act as a tough outer barrier).

Wooden Cockpit Coaming:

While I will install glass coamings if requested, my wooden kayaks will come with a solid wood coaming. Some weight, maybe 1/2 lb, might be trimmed off by going with the glass version. I prefer the wooden rim, as it will blend and fit with the wood character of the kayak:

An alternative cockpit shape, shown below on this 17'Bear Mountain Endeavour I completed in 2000. Also note the hatch covers, constructed in this case with a yellow cedar rim.

Hatches with Brass Hardware

The two hatches will be flush fitting with neoprene seals and spring loaded brass hardware to secure them in place:

Seat and Foot Braces:

The seat provided is made of a very comfortable foam, covered with a nylon mesh. It is made by Nimbus. It features adjustable back rest, and easy positioning within the kayak with Velcro tabs. Yakima adjustable aluminum foot braces are installed without the fasteners puncturing the hull.

Staple-Less Construction:

Unlike the method used by many home builders, I use a technique to form the hull and the deck over the mold without using staples. While the punctures would be very small, they are not necessary at all, if the builder is prepared to spend a bit of extra time and effort. I use a host of other fasteners to keep my planklets in place until the glue connecting it to the previous strip gets a chance to dry:

Double Layer of Abrasion Cloth Below the Hull

To protect the wood core of the hull from the inevitable grit and scratches, I double the 6oz glass on the bottom. Again, the bit of added weight is well worth the benefit of a tougher and thicker skin where it counts:

Outer and Inner Solid Wood Stems:

To provide a solid base from which the strips start and end, I install an inner solid wooden stem, instead of relying on just a glass fillet. The outer stem, besides strength, also adds to appearance:

The Cape Ann Expedition's keel fin

A specific design feature of the One Ocean "Cape Ann Expedition" and the "Sport" version of that model, is the pronounced keel fin below the stern, ensuring exellent tracking. As you can appreciate from these pictures, it is a bit of a challenge to convince the cedar strips to contort into the required shape. The effort is well worth the time, because you can stay on track without having to attach any moving aluminum or plastic components.